Southern, CT
Sleeping Giant State Park
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Sleeping Giant State Park, 200 Mt Carmel Ave, Hamden, CT 06518
Directions from Hartford: Take I-91 South to Exit 17. Continue on CT-15 South (Wilbur Cross Pkwy. Take exit 64 to turn Left on S Turnpike rd, Turn right on Mt Carmel Ave. and continue until you see the Park entrance on your right. The park fee is 15$ for out of state visitors, and free for CT residents. |
Chatfield Hollow
Main Wall:
From Route 9. Take exit 9. follow route 81 south to Route 80 at the traffic circle. The park entrance sign is on the right. Drive a little farther and park on the left. Walk up the road approx. 150 yards past a little road cut then head into the woods just before the guardrail. The cliff is less then 100 yds away on the north side of the trail.
From Route 9. Take exit 9. follow route 81 south to Route 80 at the traffic circle. The park entrance sign is on the right. Drive a little farther and park on the left. Walk up the road approx. 150 yards past a little road cut then head into the woods just before the guardrail. The cliff is less then 100 yds away on the north side of the trail.
Some Classic Routes include:
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct 5.12- Trad / Sport 55 FT
The Cold Vein 5.12 Sport
Shape Shifter 5.12c Sport 55 Ft
Zeitgeist 5.12c Trad 50 ft
Forearm Frenzy Trad 90 ft
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct 5.12- Trad / Sport 55 FT
The Cold Vein 5.12 Sport
Shape Shifter 5.12c Sport 55 Ft
Zeitgeist 5.12c Trad 50 ft
Forearm Frenzy Trad 90 ft
Bald Rock Basin: CT Bouldering
"Colossus Boulder" by Morgan Patterson
Directions:
There's a small parking lot for Bald Rock Basin located at the end of John Todd Way in Redding, CT. From the parking lot follow the blue blazed trail North. Continue North at the junction and follow sign to Bald Rock. From Bald Rock, one can hop over to the backside and continue NW and then N into the basin area. Looking at a map will help orient yourself.
There's a small parking lot for Bald Rock Basin located at the end of John Todd Way in Redding, CT. From the parking lot follow the blue blazed trail North. Continue North at the junction and follow sign to Bald Rock. From Bald Rock, one can hop over to the backside and continue NW and then N into the basin area. Looking at a map will help orient yourself.
Hurd Park: Bouldering
Directions:
From the North: I-91 south. Take Exit 20 (left exit) onto Route 9. Take a right onto Route 66 and follow Route 66. Take a right onto Route 151. Hurd State Park is on the right.
From the South: I-95 north. Take Exit 69 onto Route 9 north. Take Exit 7 and proceed on Route 82 across the East Haddam Bridge. Continue on Route 82 and take a left onto Route 151. Follow Route 151. Hurd State Park is on the left.
From the East: I-395 South to Route 2. Follow Route 2 west to Route 16. Follow Route 16 west to Cobalt. Take a left onto Route 151. Follow Route 151. Hurd State Park is on the right.
From the West: I-84 east. Take Exit 27 onto I-691. Follow I-691, which becomes Route 66. From Route 66 take a right onto Route 151. Hurd State Park is on the right.
9 Wall AKA Feather Ledges
Directions:
From Chatfield hollow state park go .3 miles west on rt 80. Park in the rough climbers pull off on the left.(south side) Walk South into the woods down the dirt trail/road without turning onto any trails for about 15 minutes. Eventually the road merges into the blue trail. The blue trail with the red dot will lead you to the top of the cliff. Bear left at fork to stay on blue trail. Continue on blue trail to access bottom of crag.
From Chatfield hollow state park go .3 miles west on rt 80. Park in the rough climbers pull off on the left.(south side) Walk South into the woods down the dirt trail/road without turning onto any trails for about 15 minutes. Eventually the road merges into the blue trail. The blue trail with the red dot will lead you to the top of the cliff. Bear left at fork to stay on blue trail. Continue on blue trail to access bottom of crag.
Bear Rock Ridge
Directions:
Take Harvey after taking bear rock rd. You will find a small parking lot to your right. Take the blue blazed trail across the pullout for around 1/2 a mile. After you cross a swampy stream, take the right hand fork in the trail, Bear rock will be on your left.
Take Harvey after taking bear rock rd. You will find a small parking lot to your right. Take the blue blazed trail across the pullout for around 1/2 a mile. After you cross a swampy stream, take the right hand fork in the trail, Bear rock will be on your left.
Wyassup Rock
Directions:
Wyassup Lake in North Stonington, CT. Park just past the boat launch. Follow the trail/dirt road, then follow the light blue markers when they break to the right off of the main trail. continue until you get to the cliff. The trail goes left and around to the top. If you follow the main trail to the right it meets up with blue trail avoiding high ledge. If you follow the main trail and not the light blue trail you end up at the end of the swap.
Wyassup Lake in North Stonington, CT. Park just past the boat launch. Follow the trail/dirt road, then follow the light blue markers when they break to the right off of the main trail. continue until you get to the cliff. The trail goes left and around to the top. If you follow the main trail to the right it meets up with blue trail avoiding high ledge. If you follow the main trail and not the light blue trail you end up at the end of the swap.
West Rock Ridge State Park
Take exit 59 from the merritt pkwy and travel south on Rt 69 Whalley Ave. Turn left onto Emerson St and then right onto Valley St. Drive down valley and take notice of the cliffs above the houses. As the road turns away from the cliffs there is a large parking lot on your left. Park in the back left of the lot near the foot bridge. Cross over the bridge, cross the baseball field and follow trails up towards the cliff. The trail heads uphill and right then along the second tier follow a trail that traverses under the cliffs. Look for a marker or two headed up to some scrambling.
Orenaug Park
Located in Woodbury, CT.
To access the Northern section of the cliff, park at back of the senior center on Main St in Woodbury across from Sycamore Ave. Head into the woods going East.
At the south end of the park along Park Rd, is another parking lot which can be used to access the Southern portion. Please note the base of the cliff on the south end is private and you should not climb on the cliffs above even though it's town owned land.
To access the Northern section of the cliff, park at back of the senior center on Main St in Woodbury across from Sycamore Ave. Head into the woods going East.
At the south end of the park along Park Rd, is another parking lot which can be used to access the Southern portion. Please note the base of the cliff on the south end is private and you should not climb on the cliffs above even though it's town owned land.
Glacial Park
Take I-95 to exit 88. Go north on Route 117 for 3.8 miles. Turn left on Sandy Hollow Road and go 2.2 miles. Turn left on Whalehead Road and go 0.4 miles.
Ledyard Areas
Area 1 in Ledyard is the best of the four areas that are located on the Sandy Hollow Road in Ledyard. It has three areas. The Blessing boulder which faces East, The El Mar Wall which faces West, and the El Mar cave which faces South West.